Saturday, 25 May 2013

Radda in Chianti, a classic Chianti wine village

Today I would like to introduce you to one of the small towns located near where I live, namely Radda in Chianti, a classic Chianti wine village. Radda, along with Castellina and Gaiole, was one of the three counties that formed the original Lega del Chianti from the 15 C onwards until the league was dissolved in the late 18 C. Today, clustered around its church, it is a tranquil village that serves the numerous wineries and agriturismi (farmhouse vacation rentals) in the surrounding countryside. The area is famous for the numerous castles, both ruined and inhabited, that dot the hills.

Radda in Chianti
View of Radda in Chianti, Tuscany, Italy
Radda is a place to buy your supplies or dine out while spending your vacation in one of the many places to stay in and near Radda in Chianti. The Palazzo del Podestà is the principal building in Radda, aside from the romanesque Church of San Niccolò, which houses a venerated wooden Crucifix dating from the 15 C. Nearby is the convent Santa Maria al Prato which dates from the mediaeval period. It now houses an art museum. Another interesting sight is the "Ice House" of the Grand Duke, built at the end of the 19 C to store snow and turn it into ice for cooling purposes.

More about Radda in Chianti and its environs.

Tuscany Toscana
Don't forget to visit Elena Spolaor's
Travel Guide!

Up-to-date news on what to see and where to stay in Chianti and all of Tuscany & Umbria.

Chianti Travel Guide

Author: Anna Maria Baldini

All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2013 - 2014. All rights reserved.

Wednesday, 1 May 2013

"The Springtime of the Renaissance" - a great exhibition currently showing in Florence

The Strozzi Palace is currently hosting a wonderful art exhibition under the title "The Springtime of the Renaissance" (La Primavera del Rinascimento. La scultura e le arti a Firenze 1400-1460. Palazzo Strozzi.). Everyone with an interest in the history of art, especially Renaissance art, should seize the opportunity to spend half a day (or a whole day) at this exhibition here in Florence or, from September, at the Louvre in Paris, if they possibly can. Every year there is a very good exhibition at the Palazzo Strozzi, but this year (2013), the Bargello and the Louvre have put together a truly fabulous show of early Florentine masterpieces displayed alongside equally beautiful Classical and late Gothic works of the kind from which the Florentines drew inspiration.

La Primavera del Rinascimento. La scultura e le arti a Firenze 1400-1460
The modern, the renaissance and the classical - a study in character.

The creators of this exhibition suggest that it was from sculpture more than painting that the Renaissance sprang, and they see the initial glimmer in the form of the two bronze relief panels submitted in 1401 by Brunelleschi and Ghiberti for the competition to create a set of new bronze doors of the Florentine baptistery. Sculpting scenes based on an identical biblical story, both artists combined Gothic elegance of costume and scenery with human figures inspired by classical sculpture. From this point on, the exhibition is dominated by the sculpture and spirit of Donatello, who did his apprenticeship in the workshops of Brunelleschi and Ghiberti. Donatello strongly influenced his contemporaries, both sculptors and painters, among whom we may count Michelozzo, Masaccio, Filippo Lippi, Paolo Uccello and Andrea del Castagno, stylistically and through his introduction of perspective in his low relief works.
Donatello at the Palazzo Strozzi in Florence
Single point perspective, classical depiction of the human form and draperies
- Donatello's St George and the Dragon in very shallow relief.

The spatial organisation of the exhibition is excellent, not least with the placement of a huge, 4th century BC, bronze horse's head, the Medici Protome, visible through an arch from the first room of the show. Later, when we enter this room, Donatello's Carafa Protome, is revealed, and we can easily see why it was long thought to be a classical work.
Donatello's Carafa Protome
Donatello or ancient Greek? Visit this exhibition to find out which!

At the appropriate points in the exhibition, Classical sculpture including portrait busts and sarcophagus friezes, are juxtaposed with early Renaissance works in which the artists were evidently struggling to relearn the artistic skills of the Greeks and Romans, especially in depicting the human form. At other points, the juxtapositions of contemporary paintings and sculptures emphasize how painters set out to make their paintings more sculptural

The Springtime of the Renaissance
Painters set out to make their paintings more sculptural.

During my visit at the end of April, viewers were sparse and I often had entire rooms to myself. You can also view the exhibits close up, with a magnifying glass if you wish (and have one with you). In most of their native museums, this is surely not possible. Try to attend this show early or at least in Florence. It will definitely be packed out when it moves to Paris

More about La Primavera del Rinascimento.

Recommended vacation accommodation in Chianti towns, villages and countryside.


Author: Anna Maria Baldini

All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2012 - 2013. All rights reserved.

Tuesday, 30 April 2013

What is the origin of those photogenic glades of cypress trees in the Val d'Orcia?

A number of readers returning from visits to Tuscany south of Siena have asked me about the origin of those photogenic glades of cypress trees in the Val d'Orcia. I have enthused about the Val d'Orcia more than once in this blog and for photographers (and others), among the visual attractions of the Val d'Orcia are the cypress trees artfully planted in rows on either side of roads leading up to isolated farmhouses and the small clusters of cypresses standing alone among the crops on otherwise bare hillsides. Why are they there?

cypress trees in the Val d'Orcia

Probably the most photographed glade of cypress trees in the whole world,

located between San Quirico d'Orcia and Montalcino in the Val d'Orcia of Tuscany, Italy.

These clusters of cypresses where, in fact, planted as bird traps. Among the trees, some of the branches and twigs, as well as artificial perches, were coated with birdlime, a sticky substance that prevents small birds flying away once they have landed on it. Italian birdlime was made by a complicated process of boiling and pounding from mistletoe berries. These birds, especially blackbirds and thrushes, were harvested as often as twice a day during the season and provided a significant part of the protein diet of the poor farmers who struggled to make a living from the clay soil here (the famous crete senesi). As in many parts of the world, trapping birds using birdlime has long been prohibited in Italy but these beautiful cypress glades remain, to the delight of visitors to this part of Tuscany.

Strada di Valoresi as seen from from Villa La Foce

The Strada di Valoresi as seen from from Villa La Foce

More about the Val d'Orcia.

More about “Villa La Foce” and Iris Origo.


Recommended vacation accommodation in Chianti towns, villages and countryside.


Author: Anna Maria Baldini

All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2012 - 2026. All rights reserved.

Wednesday, 10 April 2013

The new top level Chianti Classico wine category - useful, confusing or both?

A few days ago, I had something to say about the new Chianti Classico Gallo Nero logo, and promised to look also at the modified classification of Chianti Classico wines that was released by the Consorzio at the same time. So - the new top level Chianti Classico wine category - useful, confusing or both?

Most wine makers in Chianti Classico belong to a consortium known as the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico which is principally a collective marketing cooperative and which also sets the rules regarding the composition, classification and labelling of Chianti Classico wines.

The Consorzio's new, top level classification is designated "Gran Selezione" and is effectively a designation for single-estate wines which must be produced solely from grapes grown by the estate, cannot be sold within less than 30 months of the harvest (6 months longer than Riserva) and must receive at least three months of pre-sale bottle maturation. Yields must be 52.5 hectolitres or less per hectare, the same as for Riserva.

new top level Chianti Classico wine category

Many wine producers that I have spoken to are worried that this is going to introduce further confusion into buyers' minds regarding Chianti wines. Part of the problem is that Chianti Classico is only one of eight Chianti wine zones. Chianti Classico corresponds to the historical Chianti area located between Florence and Siena, while the other Chianti zones are distributed all over northern Tuscany. There is something to be said for this sense of dismay among some of the wine makers. However, if the labelling is consistent - in other words, the general appellation Chianti Classico is prominent and always has the same physical location on the label in relation to the subclassification appellations (IGT, Riserva) - my feeling is that Gran Selezione will allow buyers to distinguish between "ordinary" IGT (previously, vino da tavola) and Classico on the one hand, and the producers' top-of-the-range wines on the other. Gran Selezione provides greater specificity than DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) where the grapes just have to come from the wine region, not the producers' vineyards, but I would like to see the actual vineyard specified as well.

Sometimes I suspect that the new logo and the new classification have been introduced by the Consorzio not just with buyers in mind, but also their own members. The Consorzio recently lost a prolonged and very expensive court struggle with Gallo Bros. of the USA over the use of the Gallo Nero (Black Rooster) trademark on their bottles of wine sold outside Europe. Their members have not been happy about any aspect of that issue. However, this is just personal speculation - I only know what the producers tell me.

In a blog post, David Berry Green, a buyer for Berry Bros. & Rudd, rubbished the entire concept of adding an upper level Gran Selezione appellation, basically by complaining that the Consorzio had not introduced, instead, clear-cut delimitations, alla francese, of vineyards based on their "terroir". I can't agree with this criticism at all. The trend in Chianti Classico wines for the past thirty years has been away from terrain-dominated characteristics due to the dominating role of consultant oenologists. I'm not saying that's a good thing, but it is an observable fact. A terroir-based denomination would be of use to a few big properties that employ their own oenologists but would still reflect more the style of the oenologist than the geology, altitude, slope etc. (By the way, the major contribution of the Tuscan oenologist, once the vine varieties have been selected and grown, is in blending, since Chianti Classico allows for up to 20% red, non-sangiovese varietals, and this largely masks any specific contribution by geology other than in Chiantis that are 100% sangiovese.) For a divergent opinion on the introduction of Chianti Classico subzones, see the link below to the article by Roberto Stucchi.

Green also makes the following sweeping statement: "while the term Riserva is generally regarded in the UK as passé, a massive fudge, a wine that lacks provenance, has spent too long (drying out) in wood and is often too expensive". I don't know if that's a general public perception in the UK but it's definitely not the perception among all those who regularly buy and drink Chianti. Perhaps he's referring to UK-based distributor-bottled Chianti? Obviously if you're buying an estate-bottled Chianti, its provenance will be written on the bottle in great big letters and a bit of tasting experience will soon reveal whether the winemaker uses his best grapes for the Riserva. In my experience, they almost always do. The Gran Selezione classification is specifically prohibited from being used on wine bottled by wine merchants.

In summary, I tend towards favouring the new "Gran Selezione" denomination as long as it really does refer to wine made entirely from the grapes of the winery that bottles the wine and, if possible, is also identified with a particular vineyard. I would even favour putting the name of the oenologist on the bottle, as Andre Lurton of Bordeaux does, to good effect. Strangely enough, the makers of the best Italian pasta are slightly ahead of the curve in this regard. If you have a bar-code app on your cell phone, you can take advantage of pasta sold in Italian supermarkets which is bar-coded to identify the specific field where the wheat was grown. If you want to do the same thing for Chianti Classico wine, you need to key the series number and identification mark into a form on the consorzio website. As consumers become more and more particular about what they eat and drink, a Gran Selezione indication guaranteeing quality and precise origin is very likely to be a positive development for both producers and consumers.

Note added 11 January 2014: Roberto Stucchi of Badia a Coltibuono comes out in favour of the use of subzones for Chianti Classico wines.

Some useful links for Chianti Classico fans.

More about native Tuscan grape varieties.

My recommended places to stay in Tuscany.


Author: Anna Maria Baldini

All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2012 - 2013. All rights reserved.

Tuesday, 9 April 2013

"The treasure of the Lombards" - “Il Tesoro dei Longobardi” - an exhibition in Cortona 2013

If you spend a bit of time reading about the history of Tuscany (or of anywhere in northern Italy) during the Italian Dark Age, you will soon encounter the Lombards or Longobards (sometimes written Langobards) and Longobardi in Italian. These were a Germanic tribe who established a kingdom in Italy that lasted from 568 to 774. Their castles dot Tuscany and their names are still preserved in the appellations of towns like Radicondoli and, of course, in the name of the region of Lombardy. The Lombards were like the Normans, a small tribe that originated somewhere in the far north of Europe and which seem never to have stayed in one place for more than a generation. Instead, they migrated and conquered, adopting the language of their subjects and leaving their architectural legacy as far south as Sicily. The Lombard Kingdom of Italy wrested northern Italy from the Byzantines and was in turn conquered by Charlemagne and integrated into his Empire. However, Lombard nobles continued to rule parts of the Italian peninsula until well into the 11 C. It seems appropriate that the last of the Italian Lombards were conquered by the Normans and incorporated into their County of Sicily.

“Il Tesoro dei Longobardi
A Lombard brooch

An excellent exhibition on the art of the Longobards, under the title Il Tesoro dei Longobardi, will be on display in Cortona at the Palazzo Casali (MAEC - Museo dell'Accademia Etrusca) from 12 April until 30 June 2013. This is the second exhibition devoted to ancient gold work in Italy, the 2007 exhibition having been devoted to the Etruscans. This show brings together Lombard decorative gold work from a number of Italian museums and presents it both to throw light on the artistic culture of the Italian Dark Age and also in relation to contemporary jewellery that has been inspired by Lombard work.

The treasure of the Longobards
The Treasure of the Longobards Exhibition in Cortona

The first part of the exhibition is an introduction to the history and customs of the Lombards in Italy based heavily on the amazing finds from two recent tomb excavations at the "Necropoli della Ferrovia" near Cividale in Friuli plus finds in the area of Cortona.

The second part presents different objects from the 19 C excavations of the necropolis of Cividale del Friuli, including coins, clasps, broaches, belt buckles and pendants, as well as a copy of the famous golden disc ornament decorated with the image of a knight, together a series of objects from the coin cabinet of the National Archaeological Museum in Florence.

Longobard clasp
Longobard gold work

The third part of the exhibition includes about 30 pieces of fine craftsmanship, inspired by the world of the Lombards, created by master goldsmiths from Arezzo.

Highly recommended to anyone interested in a fascinating period of history and/or gold workmanship and the decorative arts.

More about Cortona.

More about the Etruscan Museum of Cortona.

My recommended places to stay in Tuscany.


Author: Anna Maria Baldini

Monday, 4 March 2013

Recommended family-friendly accommodations in Tuscany

Now that spring shows signs of coming (well, at least it isn't snowing here in Tuscany anymore - other than in the mountains), I'm receiving requests for recommended family-friendly accommodations in Tuscany. What parents usually have in mind by "family-friendly" is plenty of space for children to run around far away from traffic. My top recommendation goes to Piano di Montagliari, a Bed and Breakfast vacation accommodation located between Greve and Panzano on one of the rare flat areas of Chianti.

Recommended family-friendly accommodations in Tuscany
Piano di Montagliari Bed and Breakfast accommodations in Chianti, Tuscany
Chianti, as almost everyone knows, is a very hilly wine-growing area covering the territory between Florence and Sienna. One of the very few extensive flat areas lies where the river Greve emerges from the hills below Lamole before turning north to run through the town of the same name to join the Arno just west of Florence. This flat, former flood plain is known as the Piano di Montagliari after the big villa and formerly castle Montagliari nearby.

Bed and breakfast accommodations in Tuscany
Part of the extensive lawns around Piano di Montagliari - Villa Vignamaggio
is visible on the ridge in the distance.

B&B Piano di Montagliari is part of an old mill and is surrounded by extensive lawns which are ideal for young people's games (soccer goal provided!) and there is almost no traffic on the adjoining road which accesses one or two houses further upstream. The location also means peace and tranquility for parents who can relax in the lovely gardens after a hard day of sightseeing. Rooms with private bathrooms as well as rooms with access to a common bathroom are available. Highly recommended!

More about B&B Piano di Montagliari.

Map of the main sights of Chianti.


Author: Anna Maria Baldini

All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2012 - 2013. All rights reserved.

Sunday, 3 March 2013

Really excellent pizza in Florence

When my friends staying here in the Chianti countryside decide to head in to Florence for a day of sightseeing, they often ask me where they can get really excellent pizza in Florence. Although the native territory of pizza is in the south of Italy around Naples, this wonderful dish has long been made all over Italy and, if you look hard enough, you can find very good pizza in Florence.

Where to get a really excellent pizza in Florence
Pizza - one of the great dishes of the world
My recommendation for the best pizza in Florence is Il Pizzaiuolo (located at Via de' Macci 113/r, near the Sant'Ambrogio market - closed Sunday). Be warned, this place is usually very busy and they do have a bad habit of pushing the customers through. Either arrive early or make a reservation and show up on the dot. The pizza is thick in style and they have two pages of variants in the menu.

best pizza in Florence
Wood-fired pizza oven - the only way to go.

The follower up as best pizza place in Florence is Trattoria Baldovino (Via San Giuseppe 22/r, adjacent to Santa Croce). This place was opened and developed by David Gardner, owner of Villa Bordoni boutique hotel, and was his first great success in Florence.The newspapers were full of descriptions of the Scot who came to Florence to show the locals how to cook Tuscan food. He has since sold it but it remains a great place to eat.

If you're staying anywhere near Greve in Chianti, there is a fabulous pizzeria in Piazza Trento, near where the bus from Florence stops. This is Ristorante Pizzeria La Cantina which serves wonderful thin crust pizza as well as beautifully-presented traditional Tuscan dishes. There's outdoor seating as well as the large interior dining room. Open for both lunch and dinner, great food, prices extremely reasonable.

Recommended vacation accommodation in Chianti towns, villages and countryside.


Author: Anna Maria Baldini

All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2012 - 2015. All rights reserved.

Friday, 22 February 2013

The Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico releases the new Chianti Classico wine logo

On 19 February 2013, as part of a new marketing push, the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico released the new Chianti Classico wine logo, a modified version of the famous black rooster (gallo nero) symbol of Chianti with a border changed from the bright red to a purplish colour, presumably meant to evoke the colour of wine, even though sangiovese ("blood of Jove") grapes produce a characteristically red-coloured wine. The most frequent use of this Chianti Classico logo is on the numbered paper seal over the capsule of a bottle of Chianti Classico wine that provides a guarantee that the wine is what it claims to be.

new gallo nero chianti classico wine logo
The new Chianti Classico wine logo.
I find the new black rooster silhouette as good as the old one but regret the loss of the very recognisable and attractive bright red border. I realise there's some symbolism in the new border colour but, next to the dull green used on plain package cigarettes in Australia, purple is said by psychologists to be the most off-putting colour for marketing and I can see why they say that. The new background seems to represent the rays of the rising sun, which makes sense for a more aggressive, crowing cockerel, but seems less warm to me than the golden background.
previous gallo nero chianti classico wine logo
The previous Chianti Classico wine logo.
The new logo and marketing seem to be in part a reaction to the ruinous loss by the Consorzio in its trademark court battle against the litiginous Gallo Brothers, the largest wine producers in the USA. The Consorzio not only lost the case but had to pay costs, and the gallo nero rooster cannot be used on Chianti wines sold in the USA.

Part of the new marketing strategy involves redefining the rules for Chianti Classico wines and adding a new wine category above the Riserva level. I'll be posting on that soon.

More about Chianti Classico wine.

More about Gallo Nero wines.




All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2012 - 2013. All rights reserved.

Wednesday, 23 January 2013

Recommend a Bed and Breakfast accommodation in Greve in Chianti

I've been asked to recommend a Bed and Breakfast accommodation in Greve in Chianti, right in town, so I'm happy to give a recommendation for three B&Bs on or within a few minute's walk of Piazza Matteotti, the main square (or, rather, triangle) of Greve. Bed & Breakfast "Nella Piazza", which is right on Piazza Matteotti near the church, plus "Chianti Rooms" Bed & Breakfast and "Casa Montechiari" which are about a 10 minute walk north of the piazza among the last houses of Greve.

Bed and Breakfast accommodation in Greve in Chianti
A view across Piazza Matteotti to B&B "Nella Piazza" on the top floor.
B&B "Nella Piazza" offers three rooms each for 2 or 3 people and each with its own bathroom. Guests have use of a sunny terrace behind the building. There is also a kitchen that guests may use to prepare their own meals. If you want to be right in the middle of things in Greve, this is the place for you!


Chianti rooms bed and breakfast in Greve in Chianti
The garden of "Chianti Rooms" Bed & Breakfast in Greve in Chianti
"Chianti Rooms" B&B offers just two double rooms with en suite bathroom. They are one of the few places in the area that take guests for just one night and are open all year round. They have a beautiful garden out the back, with a terrace and a pergola where guests can enjoy their breakfast on sunny days. There is a WiFi connection available.


"Casa Montechiare" Bed and Breakfast in Greve in Chianti
The terrace of "Casa Montechiare" Bed and Breakfast in Greve in Chianti
About 100 m beyond "Chianti Rooms", we come to "Casa Montechiare" Bed and Breakfast. The front of the house is on an urban street while the terrace and garden at the back look out over the Chianti countryside. Their accommodation consists of two double (or twin) rooms, with en suite bathroom, linked by a double door, together with a fully equipped kitchen-dining room. One bedroom contains a sofa bed that can be expanded into a bunk bed for a total of 4 persons. The Greve public swimming pool is just 5 minutes walk away.





All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2012 - 2013. All rights reserved.

Tuesday, 22 January 2013

A unique vacation rental deep in the Tuscan countryside between Florence and Siena

Today I want to tell you a bit about a unique vacation rental deep in the Tuscan countryside between Florence and Siena. This is "Agrifuturismo", long ago a tiny monastery and now a tranquil agriturismo (vacation accommodations on a farm) deep (really deep) in the country off the road between Castellina in Chianti and Barberino di Val d'Elsa, in the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany.

vacation rental in the Tuscan countryside between Florence and Siena
"Agrifuturismo", an agriturismo located between Castellina and Barberin Val d'Elsa.

The apartments at Agrifuturismo are spacious, very originally furnished in Tuscan country style, and accommodate 2 and 4 persons respectively. The farmhouse has retained a great deal of its ancient monastic structure, with most of the wall and the main door being retained. A beautiful terrace looks out over the olive groves and forests. This is a place for those who want a really relaxing holiday. You should definitely put aside one day just to explore the strade bianche (dirt farm tracks) on foot. In addition to Castellina and Barberino, Monteriggioni is within easy reach by car, with Siena making an excellent day excursion. A full day excursion will take you all through the scenic Val d'Orcia.

More about this beautiful Tuscan country vacation rental.




All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2013. All rights reserved.

Saturday, 15 December 2012

Sights and attractions of the Val d'Orcia in Tuscany, Italy

The Val d'Orcia, the valley of the River Orcia, sometimes written Valdorcia is located to the SE of Sienna and is one of the most famous areas of Tuscany. Indeed, it is a UNESCO world heritage site. So today, let me say a little bit about the sights and attractions of the Val d'Orcia in Tuscany, Italy. The attractiveness of the Val d'Orcia for many lies in what I've previously called its "big sky" panoramas. The hills are rolling on the grand scale, at least by Tuscan standards, and are virtually unforested, making the characteristic dark green silhouettes of umbrella pines and cypress trees on distant horizons all the more appealing. There are also areas of highly characteristic badlands where the whitish clays, known as the crete senesi, has been eroded by the rain into what are often referred to as "lunar landscapes". It is these clays that have made parts of the Val d'Orcia so very difficult to farm in the past. Many of the most famous views of the Val d'Orcia feature the volcanic cone of Monte Amiata rising up in the background.

Sights and attractions of the Val d'Orcia in Tuscany, Italy
Iconic casa colonica and cypresses in the Val d'Orcia.
However, the Val d'Orcia is by no means simply a collection of magnificent landscapes. It includes five of the most charming hill towns in Tuscany, namely Pienza, Montalcino, San Quirico D’Orcia, Castiglione D’Orcia and Radicofani - as well as numerous castles and villas. One of the most famous of the latter is La Foce, home of the late Iris Origo whose evocative books about life in the Val d'Orcia, especially during World War II, are a must read. The grounds of La Foce are open to the public from time to time and represent probably the most famous creation of Cecil Pinsent.

View of the Valdorcia
Misty morning in the Valdorcia.
If you base yourself in the area between Montepulciano and Pienza, in addition to those two "must sees", any and all of Montalcino, Montefollonico, Monticchiello and Bagno Vignoni are worth a visit. Those interested in religion, art and architecture won't want to miss the very picturesque abbeys of Monte Oliveto and Sant’Antimo, at both of which there is Gregorian chant by the monks. Montalcino is close by Sant'Antimo. Other unspoilt villages include Castelmuzio, Montisi, Petroio and Trequanda. Petroio in particular is the place that time forgot and few tourists go there even in August.

Beautiful motoring routes include Pienza to San Quirico. Montefollonico - Castelmuzio - San Giovanni d'Asso - Asciano - Sienna is another must-do road. Yet another is SS 153 (the Pienza to Radicofani road) that goes right through the heart of the Val d'Orcia, and then, possibly best of all, San Quirico - Castiglione d'Orcia - Castelnuovo d'Abate - Montalcino.

Even if you don't base yourselves there for part of your vacation in Tuscany, the Val d'Orcia should not be missed. It's easily accessible for a day excursion from Chianti, Sienna and also the areas around Arezzo and Cortona.

Castles of the Val d'Orcia include:
Rocca di Tentennano.
Rocca Aldobrandesca.
Ripa d'Orcia.

More about the Val d'Orcia.

Another great Val d'Orcia photo.

Today's top links: For everything you need to know about what to do and where to stay in Tuscany: The Chianti Travel Guide and The Greve in Chianti Tuscany Blog.


Author: Anna Maria Baldini

All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2012 - 2020. All rights reserved.

Monday, 10 December 2012

The Mercato Centrale in Florence is not the same as the San Lorenzo Market!

Today we have a post of interest to visitors to Florence. I want to demonstrate emphatically that the Mercato Centrale in Florence is not the same as the San Lorenzo Market! They may be right next to one another, but that's all they have in common.

Here's the take-home message right at the start. The Mercato Centrale is a marvellous meat, seafood, charcuterie, fruit and vegetable market patronised by Florentines. It's housed in a beautiful 1874 Art Deco iron and glass structure and is one of the most interesting and colourful markets in Europe. In contrast, the outdoor San Lorenzo market is a crowded cluster of booths and barrows populated by aggressive touts selling overpriced tourist tat, mainly of Chinese and Indian origin.

Let's go first at the Mercato Centrale of Firenze. Here's how it looks, outside and in.

The Mercato Centrale in Florence is not the same as the San Lorenzo Market
The exterior of the Mercato Centrale in Florence.

Mercato Centrale Firenze
Just one of dozens of produce stands in the Mercato Centrale.
The Mercato Centrale is not only a wonderful place to buy your fresh produce, meat, salumi, fish, cheese, olive oil, sweets, herbs and spices, but it is also so colourful and full of life with great opportunities for some very creative photoshoots. You can also eat well at the little restaurants and food stalls inside the Mercato where you will find Tuscan home cooking, including (BUT NOT LIMITED TO!) favorite Florentine dishes such as lampredotto (tripe). (Avoid Gastronomia Perini's meat and cheese counter. They have a reputation for cheating tourists on the grand scale.)

The Mercato opens Monday through Saturday early in the morning (7 am) and closes at 2 pm. By 1.30 pm many of the stalls are already closed or closing. The Mercato Centrale is an easy stroll from the Duomo.

Mercato San Lorenzo a Firenze
Tourist souvenirs on sale at the Mercato San Lorenzo

San Lorenzo market in Florence

Almost outside the door of the Mercato Centrale is the open air Mercato San Lorenzo. Many years ago, San Lorenzo was a local market that specialised in high quality, Italian-made leather articles ranging from hand bags through jackets to leather coats. The market has long since changed into an area catering solely to tourists and manned mostly by non-Italians. The goods are largely of Chinese and Indian origin, and, despite a reputation for allowing haggling, the prices are very uniform for the same item. Those labelled 'Made in Italy', when not outright fakes, are made in Chinese sweatshops in Prato. In addition to the endless hats, T shirts and scarves, there are leather goods (and plenty of vinyl goods masquerading as leather goods) but generally of very poor quality. The mismatched pieces of leather fade badly and fade at different rates, and often rip under the slightest tension. The vendors are extremely aggressive and the place is a haven for pickpockets. The shops associated with the stalls and to which customers are often lead are not better in the quality that they offer but ARE better adapted to the hard sell. In summary, unless you want to pick up a few inexpensive gifts for friends back home, there is no good reason to come to San Lorenzo Market.

Note: a classic scam practised by some vendors at this market works as follows.  You order a couple of high quality leather jackets in a size currently out of stock, to be send to you by post. What arrives is a rubbishy item nothing like what you ordered, but your credit card is charged for two expensive jackets. You contest this with your card company but the vendor has a shipping receipt. The card company says there's nothing they can do.


Today's top links: For everything you need to know about what to do and where to stay in Tuscany: The Chianti Travel Guide and The Greve in Chianti Tuscany Blog.




All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2012 - 2019. All rights reserved.

Saturday, 8 December 2012

Palazzo Davanzati cocktail evenings 2013

The opportunity afforded by the Bargello Museum to admire the works of art there after hours while sipping a glass of wine has now moved to the wonderful Palazzo Davanzati, one of the great under-estimated sights of Florence. Palazzo Davanzati cocktail evenings 2013 actually begin now and continue every Friday evening until 1 February 2013, with the exception of 28 December 2012 and 4 January 2013. The aperitif evening at the Davanzati Palace takes place from 7 pm to 10.30 pm and costs €15 per person. A reservation is recommended (Tel. 055 294883).

Palazzo Davanzati cocktail evenings
One of the spectacular rooms of the Palazzo Davazati.
For me, the Palazzo Davanzati is one of the most enjoyable and educational museums in Florence and I strongly recommend that you seize any opportunity to spend some time there.

The Palazzo Davanzati was built during the second half of the 14 C by the Davizzi, a family of very rich wool merchants. In 1516, it was sold to the Bartolini family and, later in the same century, to the Davanzati family, also rich merchants, in whose hands it remained until 1838. The palazzo was then divided into flats and suffered severe structural damage. However, in 1904 it was restored by the antique furniture dealer Elia Volpi, who opened it to the public in 1910 as the Museo Privato della Casa Fiorentina Antica. He used it to display his stock of antique furniture. After passing through other hands, the palazzo was purchased in 1951 by the Italian government and opened once more to the public in 1956. A major restoration became necessary in 1995 and this work continued more or less until 2012 when all floors were finally re-opened to the public. The Palazzo Davanzati is now restored as closely as possible to its original 14 C appearance with the corresponding furnishings and decorations, some from that period and some later. The effect is dramatic. It really is as if we have returned to the 14 C and gained entry into the private domain of one of the incredibly wealthy Florentine families of that period. Don't miss it!

Opening hours:

Every day of the week from 8.15 am to 1.50 pm.
Closed on the second and fourth Sundays of the month and the first, third and fifth Mondays of the month, New Year’s Day, 1 May and Christmas Day.

The areas that can be visited are the ground-floor loggia and the first floor (Salone Madornale, Sala dei Pappagalli, Studiolo, Camera dei Pavoni and the two rooms displaying lace).

Access to the second floor (Salone Madornale, Camera da letto della Castellana di Vergy, Studiolo, Sala da Pranzo) and the third floor (Kitchen and Camera delle impannate) is organised for accompanied group visits, on request and by appointment, at 10.00, 11.00 and 12.00 on the normal opening days.

Tel: 0039 055 2388610
Fax: 0039 055 289805
E-mail: museo.davanzati@polomuseale.firenze.it



All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2012. All rights reserved.

Thursday, 6 December 2012

Best place to stay in Chianti, Italy

If you will be staying outside of the big towns in Tuscany for part or all of your vacation (something that I strongly recommend), then Chianti is definitely one of the great locations. Rather than a hotel, I will be recommending good holiday villas, Chianti farm houses and vacation apartments. The Chianti hills, with their case coloniche, olive trees, vineyards and forests, are more intimate than in the Val d'Orcia, for example. The hilltop villages of Chianti are better preserved and both Florence and Sienna are readily accessible for day trips from almost any place in Chianti. Of course, no one can tell you the best place to stay in Chianti, Italy! However, I'm happy recommend a good selection of accommodations that I have personally visited in Chianti. The list below links mostly to Tuscan farm houses, agriturismi, vacation rental apartments and B&Bs, but I have also included a couple of hotels with loads of character. At the bottom is a link to a complete list of my recommended Tuscan vacation rentals. Enjoy!

Best place to stay in Chianti, Italy
Could this be the best place to stay in Chianti, Italy?




All content copyright © ammonet Web Site Promotion 2012 - 2018. All rights reserved.

Friday, 12 October 2012

Why is Tuscan bread so bad?

Of all the misplaced expectations that visitors to Tuscany report, bread probably leads the pack. "Why is Tuscan bread so bad?", they ask. Well, if eaten the way the Tuscans eat it, Tuscan bread isn't bad, it's good. But it is unlike the crusty "Italian bread" sold in the States and, indeed, unlike most of the other breads sold in the homelands of our visitors.

Tuscan bread

Tuscan bread

Tuscan bread is saltless and contains no keepers to maintain freshness. This means that it bakes with a light-coloured and sometimes soft crust, is fine grained and turns into concrete by lunchtime. It is therefore not what you want if your breakfast or lunch is bread or toast, with butter and jam. Hotels often provide Tuscan bread at breakfast time because guests have asked for bread over the years, but the results are usually bad because the hotels have no idea of what a toast and jam breakfast is, and the guests completely misconceive the place of Tuscan bread on the table. So when you're here in Tuscany, you should either enjoy an Italian breakfast, meaning a sweet pastry and a coffee at a local bar, or buy the appropriate bread from a supermarket ("foreign" breakfast breads are, in fact, available in Supermarkets but rarely at bakeries).

For lunch, sandwich bread substitutes are readily available and extremely popular in Tuscany, forming, as they do, the basis for panini, the popular Italian take away sandwich lunch. Various forms of schiacciatina are often used to create a panino, essentially a sandwich with the major difference that butter is almost always replaced with olive oil. Many Tuscan households don't use butter from one week to the next.

So how should Tuscan bread be eaten? In essence, Tuscan bread accompanies all phases of an Italian meal except the dolce (dessert). That's why there's always a huge basket of bread in the middle of the table and also why it should always arrive at your table early on during a restaurant meal. Slices of bread, moistened by spreads of olive oil, chopped tomatoes and so on, might also be served up as an antipasto in the form of crostini, bruschetta or fettunta. Tuscan bread goes perfectly with salty antipasti such as salami and prosciutto, but remember to pour a bit of olive oil onto your bread to soften it up and add flavour just before eating it. During the pasta and main courses, you use your bread to finish off any sauce left on the plate.

In the country, the evening meal might consist mostly of dishes based primarily on bread. Indeed, when the rural regions of Italy were much poorer than they are now, bread and oil were the staff of life, and dishes like ribollita and panzanella were eaten every day. Ribollita - the word means 're-boiled' - is a winter 'soup' that consists mostly of the day's remaining bread added to a pot of white beans, vegetables and, most important of all, a kale called cavolo nero. Generations of Tuscans have survived the winter eating ribollita. Panzanella is a summer dish, basically a light bread salad that also uses up the bread left at the end of the day.

Conclusion? When in Tuscany, as far as bread is concerned, do as the Tuscans do and you'll discover that our bread is perfectly adapted to complement our delicious traditional dishes!

More about Tuscan culinary specialities.

Useful information on what it costs to eat out in Tuscany.

All about ordering coffee in Tuscany.

Author: Anna Maria Baldini


All content copyright © ammonet European domain name registration 2012 - 2026. All rights reserved.