Gregorian chant at the Abbey of Sant'Antimo - now part of the past

Many visitors to the Val d'Orcia and the area around Montalcino, and from even further afield in Tuscany, have visited the Abbazia di Sant'Antimo not only for the beautiful architecture, but also to hear the monks chanting. Alas, it seems certain that Gregorian chant at the Abbey of Sant'Antimo ceased at the end of 2015. The French White Friars, who follow the rule of St. Augustine in the Norbertine order and who have been at the Monastery of Sant'Antimo for 36 years, returned to France before the end of the year.

The Abbey of Sant'Antimo near Montalcino in Tuscany, Italy

 

 

 The monks will move to the Abbaye de Saint Michel de Frigolet near Avignon in France. This French abbey, which dates from 1858, is in a critical state basically because only two monks remain there, both elderly, and the decision was made by the Norbertine Order to draw on their community elsewhere. An additional factor might have been the refusal of the Siennese authorities that watch over historical buildings to let the order rebuild the cloister and the monks' accommodation, meaning that growth in the size of the community at Sant'Antimo was precluded.

Monks during Mass at the Abbey of Sant'Antimo

 The Bishop of Montalcino has indicated that he hopes to find another religious community to replace the departing White Friars but there has been no word on whether he has been successful. It is also highly unlikely that the new community will specialise in Gregorian chant.

What this means is that visitors who wish to enjoy the experience of Gregorian chant at the Abbazia di Sant'Antimo must try to come here within the next couple of months.

More about the Abbey of Sant'Antimo.

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Author: Anna Maria Baldini

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What is the origin of those photogenic glades of cypress trees in the Val d'Orcia?

A number of readers returning from visits to Tuscany south of Siena have asked me about the origin of those photogenic glades of cypress trees in the Val d'Orcia. I have enthused about the Val d'Orcia more than once in this blog and for photographers (and others), among the visual attractions of the Val d'Orcia are the cypress trees artfully planted in rows on either side of roads leading up to isolated farmhouses and the small clusters of cypresses standing alone among the crops on otherwise bare hillsides. Why are they there?

Probably the most photographed glade of cypress trees in the whole world,
located between San Quirico d'Orcia and Montalcino in the Val d'Orcia of Tuscany, Italy.

These clusters of cypresses where, in fact, planted as bird traps. Among the trees, some of the branches and twigs, as well as artificial perches, were coated with birdlime, a sticky substance that prevents small birds flying away once they have landed on it. Italian birdlime was made by a complicated process of boiling and pounding from mistletoe berries. These birds, especially blackbirds and thrushes, were harvested as often as twice a day during the season and provided a significant part of the protein diet of the poor farmers who struggled to make a living from the clay soil here (the famous crete senesi). As in many parts of the world, trapping birds using birdlime has long been prohibited in Italy but these beautiful cypress glades remain, to the delight of visitors to this part of Tuscany.

The Strada di Valoresi as seen from from Villa La Foce

More about the Val d'Orcia.

More about “Villa La Foce” and Iris Origo.


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Sights and attractions of the Val d'Orcia in Tuscany, Italy

The Val d'Orcia, the valley of the River Orcia, sometimes written Valdorcia is located to the SE of Sienna and is one of the most famous areas of Tuscany. Indeed, it is a UNESCO world heritage site. So today, let me say a little bit about the sights and attractions of the Val d'Orcia in Tuscany, Italy. The attractiveness of the Val d'Orcia for many lies in what I've previously called its "big sky" panoramas. The hills are rolling on the grand scale, at least by Tuscan standards, and are virtually unforested, making the characteristic dark green silhouettes of umbrella pines and cypress trees on distant horizons all the more appealing. There are also areas of highly characteristic badlands where the whitish clays, known as the crete senesi, has been eroded by the rain into what are often referred to as "lunar landscapes". It is these clays that have made parts of the Val d'Orcia so very difficult to farm in the past. Many of the most famous views of the Val d'Orcia feature the volcanic cone of Monte Amiata rising up in the background.

Iconic casa colonica and cypresses in the Val d'Orcia.

However, the Val d'Orcia is by no means simply a collection of magnificent landscapes. It includes five of the most charming hill towns in Tuscany, namely Pienza, Montalcino, San Quirico D’Orcia, Castiglione D’Orcia and Radicofani - as well as numerous castles and villas. One of the most famous of the latter is La Foce, home of the late Iris Origo whose evocative books about life in the Val d'Orcia, especially during World War II, are a must read. The grounds of La Foce are open to the public from time to time and represent probably the most famous creation of Cecil Pinsent.

Misty morning in the Valdorcia.

If you base yourself in the area between Montepulciano and Pienza, in addition to those two "must sees", any and all of Montalcino, Montefollonico, Monticchiello and Bagno Vignoni are worth a visit. Those interested in religion, art and architecture won't want to miss the very picturesque abbeys of Monte Oliveto and Sant’Antimo, at both of which there is Gregorian chant by the monks. Montalcino is close by Sant'Antimo. Other unspoilt villages include Castelmuzio, Montisi, Petroio and Trequanda. Petroio in particular is the place that time forgot and few tourists go there even in August.

Beautiful motoring routes include Pienza to San Quirico. Montefollonico - Castelmuzio - San Giovanni d'Asso - Asciano - Sienna is another must-do road. Yet another is SS 153 (the Pienza to Radicofani road) that goes right through the heart of the Val d'Orcia, and then, possibly best of all, San Quirico - Castiglione d'Orcia - Castelnuovo d'Abate - Montalcino.

Even if you don't base yourselves there for part of your vacation in Tuscany, the Val d'Orcia should not be missed. It's easily accessible for a day excursion from Chianti, Sienna and also the areas around Arezzo and Cortona.

Castles of the Val d'Orcia include:
Rocca di Tentennano.
Rocca Aldobrandesca.
Ripa d'Orcia.

More about the Val d'Orcia.

Another great Val d'Orcia photo.

Today's top links: For everything you need to know about what to do and where to stay in Tuscany: The Chianti Travel Guide and The Greve in Chianti Tuscany Blog.

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