Saturday, 7 July 2012

Monteriggioni Mediaeval Festival (Festa Medievale)

Monteriggioni is a Tuscan village surrounded by one of the most intact curtain walls in Italy. The town is absolutely worth a visit and there is no better time to do so than during the Monteriggioni Mediaeval Festival (Festa Medievale) which takes place this year on 6-8 July and 13-15 July 2012. Tuscany is famous for its mediaeval festivals and the one taking place at Monteriggioni ranks among the best - as good or better than the Volterra festival.

Monteriggioni Mediaeval Festival

Most of the inhabitants dress in mediaeval costume and man the stalls selling antique-style handicrafts, herbs and mediaeval food. There are excellent parades with jugglers, acrobats, stiltsmen and so on, plenty of early music and often a fabulous re-enactment of a mediaeval battle. The tamed birds of prey are especially interesting - not only hawks, but also owls and other birds. For children there are puppet shows and and a skilled illusionist, and for adults much street theatre.


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Wednesday, 27 June 2012

Vacation villas and accommodations in Chianti, Italy

I am contributing to a new blog based around vacation villas and accommodations in Chianti, Italy, but, like my Tuscany-Toscana blog, open to everything of interest to visitors (and also residents) of Tuscany, and especially to the Chianti Classico area between Florence and Sienna.

The new Tuscany Blog is located here: http://www.greve-in-chianti.com/tuscany/

As we see more and more websites listing vacation rentals in Tuscany, it becomes increasingly important to do business via the long-established sites such as www.greve-in-chianti.com (founded in 1997) and www.bella-toscana.com (founded in 1998). Many of the new websites and the businesses behind them are very unprofessional and simply relist over and over again the same group of properties. Problems are also being reported by users of the bigger listing services, complaints being mostly with regard to inaccurate descriptions of the rental properties and lack of accountability if something goes wrong. Many of the big sites now belong to a very small number of corporate owners and this has exacerbated the issue of indifference to customers' problems with the rental procedures, refund procedures and the property descriptions. Too often, farmhouses are being listed as "villas", and rural properties that are not working farms are being listed as "agriturismi".

My recommendation remains to make use of owner-direct websites that are local so that the company owning the website has the opportunity to inspect every property listed, and so that there will be someone on hand to help out if problems arise. In my experience, the visitor has a much better feel for a place if he or she intereacts with the owner before arrival.

Don't for get to read my notes on what you can expect from your Tuscany vacation rental. Misplaced expectations can sometimes have a negative effect on your holiday.




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Exhibition of Renaissance Majolica at the Bargello, Florence

For everyone interested in painted ceramics, there is a fabulous exhibition of Renaissance majolica at the Bargello, Florence, until 16 September, 2012.

Towards the end of the Dark Ages, earthenware was popularly thought to carry the plague and was consequently destroyed in huge quantities during the Black Death in Italy, up until the the early 15 C. Perhaps this loss of earlier work contributed to the resurgence and originality of  "Majolica", tin-glazed painted pottery, during the Renaissance, when it became enormously popular and of high artistic quality. The Medici collected hundreds of pieces, many of which are now housed in the Bargello Museum. These masterpieces, plus many beautiful examples from other museums throughout the world, form the basis of this exhibition - "Fabulae Pictae: Myths and Stories in Renaissance Majolica".

Majolica was a product mostly of smaller centres. Florence itself had a comparatively small production, most of it made in Montelupo Fiorentino (still a centre of painted ceramic production) and Faenza, across the border in Emilia-Romagna. More was imported from Deruta but the finest pieces came from Urbino, where the court took practical steps to promote majolica production.

This exhibition displays some of the sources of Renaissance majolica subject matter in the form of woodcuts, engravings, drawings, medals, placquettes and bronzes, adjacent to the majolica pieces themselves. This is a huge help for some present day visitors who might not be as familiar with Ovid's "Metamorphoses" or, for that matter, the Bible, as were the original owners of these objects.

Over the years, there have been numerous excellent exhibitions of Renaissance majolica in Italy - this exhibition stands among the best of them.

More about Deruta.

More about Montelupo Fiorentino.

More about Urbino.


 



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Saturday, 23 June 2012

Visiting Tuscany in August

There are a number of myths around that seem to discourage tourists from visiting Tuscany in August.

One of these myths is that Tuscany is too hot in August. While it's true that Florence, located as it is in a deep valley, can be boiling, the Tuscan hills and hill towns are always tolerable and frequently extremely pleasant during August. In addition, "hot" is a comparative expression. Texans hear that Tuscany is hot and imagine that it's as hot as or even hotter than Texas - which is not true at all! In fact, air-conditioning, for example, is rare in Tuscany, in large part because it's unnecessary.

Visiting Tuscany in August
The beach is one option when visiting Tuscany during August

Another myth is that all the shops, restaurants and museums are closed because the Tuscans have migrated en masse to the seaside. Well, many Tuscan families do locate themselves near the beach during August, but the working members of the family often commute between their businesses and the beach while the family stays there. And of course the museums are all open. So, in fact, the larger cities are quieter and even more attractive during August than at other times while all the services you require continue to be readily available.

There are even opportunities available during summer, including August, that are not available at other times. One of the best it to be able to enjoy a glass of wine and a snack buffet at a museum during a warm summer evening: Aperitivo Ad Arte!

August is a good time to enjoy a minibus tour with a professional driver-guide. Even when you go to hot places, the minibus will be air conditioned and you won't have to walk as far as you would if you used a rental car or public transport. These tours are not cheap but they make extremely efficient use of your valuable vacation time.

In summary, don't hesitate to visit Tuscany in August! There's plenty of accommodation available and all the important sights are open and less crowded than usual.

www.bella-toscana.com

Air conditioned holiday accommodations in Tuscany.

Beaches in Italy.

Slow tours in Tuscany.





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Monday, 11 June 2012

Volterra A.D. 1398 mediaeval festival

Every year in August, the beautiful Tuscan hilltop town of Volterra goes back to the middle ages for the Volterra A.D. 1398 mediaeval festival. The entire town dresses up and mediaeval trades, professions, music and food are on display everywhere. You can even rent a costume for the day, exchange your euros for some grossi (mediaeval coins) and have a good time spending them. In a country that has some of the greatest costume festivals in the world, the Volterra festival is right among the very best. It runs Sunday to Sunday, and in fact the Sundays are the best days to be here. In 2014, the festival dates are from 17th to 24th August. Don't miss it!


Volterra A.D. 1398 mediaeval festival
Volterra A.D. 1398 mediaeval festival


www.volterra.net/events.htm

www.chiantitravelguide.com

Much additional useful information for tourists visiting Tuscany is provided by:

www.bella-umbria.com



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Sunday, 10 June 2012

Beaches in Tuscany

Going to the beach in Tuscany is a very different experience from doing the same thing in most other countries. Beaches in Tuscany are very commonly rented out by the municipality in the form of fenced off concessions covered in rows of beach umbrellas and deck chairs (Rimini in Emilia-Romagna and Forte dei Marmi in Tuscany are classic examples). That's what Italians like when they go to the beach, and they go in droves for the whole of August. Seaside hotels often have a private beach, sometimes across a road from the hotel, but check on whether you have to pay extra to use the hotel's concession. In principle, you should be able to walk along the beach within a 10m strip from the water's edge, and to pass through private establishments to get to the sea, but this is not always practical.

tuscan beaches
A Tuscan beach on the Argentario Cape of Tuscany

 There are free beaches (una spiaggia libera) where you and your children can run around doing whatever you want without having to pay, and they often have showers and toilet facilities, and sometimes are bar or cold drinks vendor. However, these free beaches, especially near cities (such as Ostia Lido near Rome) can be dirty, extremely crowded and not particularly pleasant. Take care of your possessions and beware of illegal pedlars.

Beaches in Tuscany


In parts of Tuscany there are remote and pristine sand beaches but, of course, they lack lifeguards. Some of the best beaches in Tuscany are on the coast of the Maremma in SW Tuscany, and at Castiglione della Pescaia on the Maremma coast there are facilities and life guards. Rather rocky access to the crystal sea in pleasant conditions can be found around the Monte Argentario promontory in the extreme SW of Tuscany.

A free-access beach in Tuscany

  If you are continuing your trip by going south to Rome and Naples, there are some beautiful beaches in and near Gaeta which is located on the coast about halfway between Rome and Naples. The town itself is interesting and makes a good base from which to explore Lazio and the Campania.

More about going to the beach in Tuscany.

My list of recommended holiday accommodation in Tuscany.

Much additional useful information for tourists visiting Tuscany is provided by:

www.bella-umbria.com




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Saturday, 2 June 2012

What to expect when you arrive at your vacation rental in Tuscany

Visitors to Tuscany who have always stayed in a hotel during their vacations elsewhere might be hesitant to rent an agriturismo or similar self-catering holiday home when they visit Tuscany for the first time. There is a series of useful articles about what to expect when you arrive at your vacation rental in Tuscany on the www.tuscany-vacation-rentals.net website which will allay any worries you have and at the same time obviate possibly misplaced expectations. These articles cover the following topics:

What is a "villa" in Tuscany?
Arrival times, duration of stay and departure times.
Telephones and internet connections.
Electricity, water and natural gas supplies.
- Electricity in Italy.
- Air conditioning in Tuscany.
- Heating a vacation rental in Tuscany.
- Water supply in Tuscany.
Cleaning your Tuscan vacation rental.
- Towels and Linen.
Keys and Security.
- Breakage and Damage.
Food and other Supplies in Tuscany.
Insects, mosquitoes and other "bugs" in Tuscany
.
Gardens and terraces in Tuscany.
Swimming pools in Tuscany.
Handicapped accessibility.
- Allergies.
Tourist taxes in Tuscany.
Festivals and events in Tuscany.
Roads and driving in Tuscany.




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Wednesday, 23 May 2012

Bed and Breakfast Accommodations in Chianti

bed and breakfast in chianti
Ancora del Chianti Bed and Breakfast in Chianti
Not everyone realises that there is a plentiful supply of excellent Bed and Breakfast Accommodations in Chianti. These B&Bs are usually rooms but can also be small apartments, and they are located in both towns and villages as well as out in the country. B&Bs in town have the convenience that you can usually walk out your front door into the main piazza or be within a few minutes walk of it. In addition, a town location usually means there is a bus stop nearby linking you easily from rural towns to Florence. Bed and Breakfast accommodations in the countryside usually require a car for access but are also much more likely to have a swimming pool. If they are up in the Chianti hills, they will surely be cooler than average in summer, and of course quieter. Competition and the weakening euro mean that B&B prices are highly competitive and will usually give you much better value than a hotel.

An excellent range of B&Bs in Chianti are listed here.




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Wednesday, 16 May 2012

Great vacation accommodation deals in Tuscany, Italy


Now is the moment to take advantage of the excellent range of great vacation accommodation deals in Tuscany, Italy! While tourists still stream into Florence on tour buses, independent travellers have been somewhat shy so far this year in venturing out into the Tuscan countryside, particularly the Chianti Classico wine zone. With the recent rise in the value of the dollar against the euro plus the large number of agriturismi and Bed & Breakfast vacation accommodations available, prices are currently extremely attractive for tourists planning to spend a few days in Tuscany. The old days of having to book Saturday to Saturday are long gone. By going to reputable owner-direct websites, you can rent a traditionally furnished apartment for less than the price of a not very good hotel room in Florence. One of the best of these owner-direct sites is www.greve-in-chianti.com which not only lists all kinds of vacation accommodations in central Chianti Classico, but also contains a huge amount of useful information on what to see in Chianti and elsewhere in Tuscany.

Much additional useful information for tourists visiting Tuscany is provided by:

www.bella-umbria.com



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Thursday, 10 May 2012

Tourist tax in Florence - Tassa di Soggiorno a Firenze

A tourist tax in Florence was introduced on 1 July 2011. This is a tax on any tourist - in fact, any non-resident visitor - sleeping overnight in commercial premises within Florence, including camping grounds. The amount of the tourist tax ranges from 1 euro to 5 euros per person per night, depending on the star rating of the accommodation in the case of hotels, and will range from 1 to 3 euros for other forms of accommodation. The Florence tourist tax maximum is 5 euros per person per night, for five nights maximum. It will be the accommodation that is responsible for collecting the tax. Some hotels are listing the tourist tax as a separate item and adding it to their charges while others are silently swallowing it. A similar tassa di soggiorno was introduced in Venice, and many municipalities throughout Tuscany have followed suit, so that we can now basically think of a tourist tax in Tuscany. The details of the tourism tax for Greve in Chianti can be seen here.

Tourist tax in Tuscany

This is an unfortunate consequence of the widespread tax evasion practised by individuals and small businesses in Italy. The municipal tax take is simply too small to finance the upkeep of the attractions and facilities on which tourist cities such as Florence depend for a significant part of their business. It could also be that Florence and, especially, Venice are less interested in budget tourists. Unjust but understandable.

One of the complaints levelled at this tourist tax by the hotel owners of Florence is that it gave even further advantage to the agriturismi, B&Bs and farmhouse apartments in the countryside that are already able to offer prices with which city hotels have no possibility to compete. This complaint is justified and many if not all rural municipalities have now introduced a similar tax for agriturismi and other rural accommodations. Nevertheless, country accommodations remain one of the great tourist deals in Italy.






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Thursday, 29 March 2012

Tuscan villa vacation rentals

If you're planning a trip to Tuscany, you will frequently see the expression Tuscan villa vacation rentals used while you're searching for your vacation accommodation in Tuscany, Italy. There is an element of confusion regarding the meaning of the word "villa" in the Tuscan tourism sector and you as a future visitor to Tuscany should probably clarify in your own mind what kind of vacation accommodation you are looking for before starting your search. A "Tuscan villa", properly speaking, is a large, patrician house, designed by an architect, surrounded by a formal Italian garden and probably dating from the 19th century. Of course, the most famous villas are medicean and dating from Renaissance times, but only one of those remains in private hands. Few true villas are rented out to visitors unless they have been broken up into holiday apartments or converted into hotels. However, common usage, especially in the UK, applies the term "villa" to almost any stand-alone house so that advertising in the Tuscany tourism sector frequently refers to Tuscan farmhouses as "Tuscan villas". As a consequence, tourists now search for a Tuscan villa for a family of four when what they are really seeking is a casa colonica, a Tuscan farmhouse. Bear this distinction in mind as you read through the accommodation offerings on the internet.

Some useful links:

A bit about the history of Tuscan villas and the villa in Italy.

The characteristics of Italian villas - gardens, fountains, architecture.

Gardens of the Tuscan villas.

Tuscan vacation villas to rent - real villas, not just farmhouses.

A selection of Tuscan farmhouse vacation rentals.

Useful tips on what you can expect from your vacation rental in Tuscany.

Author: Anna Maria Baldini

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Thursday, 16 February 2012

Tuscan cooking lessons in Tuscany

We all know that an important part of every visitor's experience of Tuscany is Tuscan food. A way to expand on this highly enjoyable aspect of your trip to Tuscany is to take a Tuscan cooking lesson in Tuscany. Cooking lessons generally involve a whole morning or afternoon and culminate in a sit-down meal where you consume the products of your efforts. Morning cookery lessons can often be preceded by a visit to a Tuscan farmers' fruit and vegetable market where you receive useful tips on how to buy the best and freshest constituents for your meal. Some Tuscan cooking classes accept all applicants up to a certain upper limit in terms of numbers while others confine themselves strictly to your group only. The latter are not necessarily more expensive since price depends pretty much on the number of participants.

Tuscan cooking lesson in Tuscany
Tuscan cooking - one of the joys of a visit to Tuscany
We are able to recommend these excellent Tuscan cooking teachers:

Elisa Berghi specialises in pasta and antipaste: Elisa for cooking classes in Tuscany.

Jacopo and Anna who cover the entire range of Tuscan cuisine: Tuscan cooking lessons with "Let's Cook".

Both Elisa and also Jacopo and Anna will also cater a dinner at your own accommodations in Tuscany. All you need is a well-equipped kitchen. They will do the rest.



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Wednesday, 1 February 2012

Lucca in Tuscany, Italy

Just a quick post to remind everyone that the art city of Lucca in Tuscany, Italy is one of the most enjoyable and interesting cities to visit in Tuscany. Lucca holds its place among the Tuscan art cities along with Florence, Sienna and Pisa, but shares top spot with or perhaps is even superior to Sienna in terms of ambiance. Lucca is flat, has almost no motorised traffic and above all has enormously wide and intact walls which are ideal for strolling or bicycling. And of course Lucca is packed with beautiful art and architecture, as well as good eating and good shopping.

Lucca Tuscany
Piazza Napoleone in Lucca, Tuscany




Vacation accommodation in Tuscany
www.bella-toscana.com
Author: Anna Maria Baldini


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Wednesday, 18 January 2012

Ferienwohnungen in der Toskana

Für unsere Deutsch-sprechende Leser:

Toskana, Italien

FeWo in der Toskana. Unterkünfte und Sehenswürdigkeiten für Ihren Urlaub in der Toskana, Italien.

Landkarte der Toskana. Eine Karte der Toskana das zeigt Orte von Interesse in der Toskana und Umbrien, Italien.

Unterkünfte in der Toskana

Unterkünfte in der Toskana. Toskanische Villen und Bauernhäuser, Hotels, Agriturismi und Pensionen für Ihren Urlaub in der Toskana.

Unternehmungen in der Toskana. Villen, Ferienwohnungen, Ferienhaüser und Ferienzimmer in der Toskana.

Agriturismi in der Toskana. Ferienapartments im Bauernhaus, Ferienwohnungen und Zimmer auf dem Bauernhof.

Frühstückspensionen in der Toskana. B&B (Bed und Breakfast) Zimmer und Ferienunterkünfte in Chianti.

Unterkünfte in der Umgebung von Florenz. Selbstversorgungs-Ferienunterkünfte in der ländlichen Umgebung von Florenz, Toskana.

Luxus-Hotels in der Toskana. Villen und Boutique-Hotels in der Toskana.

Author: Anna Maria Baldini



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Tuesday, 17 January 2012

Warm Christmas and New Year weather in Chianti

Well, we had great weather from mid-December into January this year. The days were very short, of course, but from 10.30 am until 2.30 pm, I routinely sat out on my terrace without a jacket, that's how warm the sunshine was. As soon as a shadow fell, it was very cold. In other words, cold ambient temperature but lots of radiant heat. At night I kept the fire going in the kitchen. A friend in Florence told me that they had several deluges there but here in the country there was just a bit of drizzle every now and again.

Author: Anna Maria Baldini




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Tuesday, 20 December 2011

Public swimming pool in Tuscany

If your accommodations in Tuscany don't offer a pool, you might well feel like cooling off and/or relaxing at a public swimming pool in Tuscany. The municipal pools in Greve in Chianti are highly recommended. The two outdoor pools, one for small children, are spotlessly clean and sun umbrellas and comfortable plastic chairs are available. The two indoor pools are reserved for swimming classes, clubs etc. The Greve pools are located a 15 minute walk (flat, not hilly!) from the main piazza of Greve. That's one hour by bus or 45 minutes by car from Florence.

Greve in Chianti public swimming pool in Tuscany
Greve in Chianti public swimming pool in Tuscany




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Wednesday, 7 December 2011

The village of Calcata near Rome, Italy


Calcata Italy
The village of Calcata near Rome, Italy

The fortified village of Calcata, Italy is not in Tuscany, but rather it is near Rome. Nevertheless, we mention it here because of our interest in castles and fortified villages. Calata in on the outshirts of the Valle del Treja Natural Park which is an easy 40 km drive from Rome. The village is a large castle that stands high up on a tuffa volcanic plug. The fortifications, especially the gate passage, are extremely well-preserved and the entire village is worth exploring. The population consists largely of "fricchettoni" meaning roughly "freaks", artists, bohemians, aging hippies and New Age types, with their associated galleries and cafes. These latter might or might not appear to you, but Calcata is definitely worth a visit if you are in the region of Lake Bracciano.






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Tuscan events and festivals

Visitors planning their trips to Tuscany will probably be keen to attend any Tuscan festivals and events coinciding with their vacation dates and location. Some of these festivals are spectacularly good and even the smallest of village festas are fun and provide an insight into life in Tuscany.

Tuscany events and festivals
Flag throwing at a Tuscan festival

Here's a link to an example of a local mediaeval festival known as “A cena da Messer Boccaccio”, a mediaeval dinner taking place in Certaldo. And I have reported on the great mediaeval costume festival at Monteriggioni here.

The major festivals are described at: Annual Festivals and Events in Tuscany.

As comprehensive a list as is possible of events in Tuscany (there are literarily thousands of festivals every year in Tuscany) is give at: Events in Tuscany.

Another way to enter into Tuscan life a bit is to buy your supplies at the nearest weekly open air market - or at least go there and have a look around. Markets are very informative about life in the community you're visiting! A list of the days of the week when these open air markets are held is give at: Market Days in Tuscany.

For those of you interested in Renaissance art, perhaps read my review of the 2013 Palazzo Strozzi exhibition, "The Springtime of the Renaissance".



Tuscany Toscana
Don't forget to visit Elena Spolaor's
Travel Guide!

Up-to-date news on what to see and where to stay in Chianti and all of Tuscany & Umbria.

Chianti Travel Guide

Tuscany tourist information - tourist information


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Sunday, 4 December 2011

Brolio Castle

Castello di Brolio in Chianti or Brolio Castle, as it is known in English, is one of the most famous inhabited castles in Chianti, indeed, in all of Tuscany. This is quite strange in a sense because although a manor house or castle has been documented on the site since before the year 1000, the current structure is in large part a mid 19th century product of the Gothic Revival. Even the gardens are 19th century, despite one part being in 16th century italianate style. Brolio Castle has been the property of the Ricasoli family more or less continuously since 1141. The most famous member of this family was Baron Ricasoli, an important politician in the early days of the newly united Italy and also an agronomist who systematised a grape blend that remained the definition of Chianti wine for more than 150 years.

Brolio Castle depicted on the map of the Capitani di Parte Guelfa, 1595
Brolio Castle depicted on the map of the Capitani di Parte Guelfa, 1595
The gardens and ramparts of the Castello di Brolio can be visited for free and the views are definitely spectacular. The chapel and museum of Brolio Castle require a ticket, and there is also a wine tour. Whether either of these tours are worth the money draws mixed reviews.


 


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Thursday, 1 December 2011

Tuscan culinary specialities

There's an excellent page devoted to Tuscan culinary specialities on the Greve in Chianti web site that's worth a look. It provides a brief introduction to the following topics with links to more comprehensive information.

Tuscan olive oil - some good advice on making sure that your olive oil is the real thing. There seems to be a certain amount of low grade oil, some of it not originating from olives, on the market labelled as extra virgin olive oil.

Tuscan bread - unsalted and misunderstood.

Schiacciata con l'uva - a delicious sweet version of focacci, a kind of flatbread, prepared during the grape harvest in September.

Porcini mushrooms - delicious in endless dishes as well as fried in olive oil with some nipitella.

Tuscan truffles - when fresh and the real thing, they add a wonderful aroma to pasta or poultry (e.g. under the skin of a roasted pheasant).

Tuscan saffron - like truffles, very expensibe but needed in only small quantities to provide a unique flavour. Buy from the grower to be sure you're getting unadulterated saffron.

Bistecca alla fiorentina - Florentine grilled steak - learn how to cook it and how to order it in a Tuscan restaurant.

Tuscan prosciutto crudo - cured ham slice off the bone and accompanied by Tuscan bread.

Tuscan pecorino - ewes' milk cheese.

Author: Anna Maria Baldini




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